Of French Toast and Fountains and the Friendly Confines

I bet you thought I'd forgotten to tell you about our last full day in Chicago, back in late September.

Nope.

It's just that, in the intervening seven weeks, we've taken three more trips. 

Which, what with all of the other stuff that goes on around here more or less constantly, has kept me from giving the proper amount of attention to this task.

I'm sure it's the same at your house.

But today's the day. Lucky you. Let's press on.

It was September nineteenth. We awoke with great hope that the Cubs would win the game that night, unlike the one the night before, which they'd lost.

We'd be in attendance yet again and we were looking forward to singing Go Cubs, Go as our boys, mired in a dismal losing streak, broke it and took their victory lap.

Dreams die hard in the hearts of Cub fans.

Breakfast at Eleven

But first: Eleven City Diner.

I'd drawn a bead on this place during our trip in 2018, but we'd run out of time before we made it over there.

I told Erica and Chad about it and during their trip to Chicago over Labor Day weekend this year, they had a memorable meal at Eleven.

So this time, I was determined. We summoned an Uber and soon were on our way. It wasn't far -- just over on South Wabash.

As soon as you walk into Eleven City Diner, you know it's super special. It's basically a Jewish delicatessen type of restaurant. Very old school although the restaurant itself is not old.

Frank Sinatra with lots of thrilling treble reverberated throughout the high-ceilinged space. There were plush leather booths and thick diner-style coffee mugs.

I had to laugh when TG took a call on his low-tech flip phone and, sitting in the glow of red neon, wearing his shades which are also reading cheaters, resembled a mob boss instructing that certain kneecaps be broken.

I quickly dispatched this picture to the kids. Audrey pointed out that the ring worn on her dad's pinky finger only added to the illusion of him being a wiseguy.

(Sometimes he wears it that way. I don't think it's a fashion statement.)

At any rate, the coffee was excellent and so was everything else. I ordered a spinach and feta omelet (my favorite) with a slice of challah French toast on the side.

I don't remember what TG had.

All I can say is that if there is a better breakfast to be had in the city of Chicago, I would like to know where it is served. 

(But I don't believe there is a better breakfast in Chicago -- and that is saying something because I've been to, among other places, The Original Pancake House on East Bellevue Place.)

We check out a library

After that marvelous meal we were ready to walk. It was a balmy day. We consulted my phone and headed five-or-so blocks north, then turned one block west, to State Street.

Our destination was the Harold Washington Library Center, a remarkable building in and of itself.

Its namesake served as the fifty-first mayor of Chicago. Mayor Washington died after four and a half years in office -- literally, he died in his office, of a massive coronary -- on the morning of November 25, 1987.

We had seen the library before, but we wanted to go inside and view an art installation entitled Above and Beyond.

Above and Beyond is the only Vietnam War memorial besides the wall in Washington DC, to feature all names of those who lost their lives in that conflict.

The names are engraved on 58,307 replica dog tags that hang inside a 13 x 34 foot opening in the ceiling on the library's third floor, between the escalators.

There is also a single black dog tag representing those who died from conditions related to service during the war.

At an interactive kiosk, you can use a touch screen to search for anyone whose name you know will be there.

Our Chad's father, Greg, lost a first cousin in Vietnam, in July of 1970. His name was Sandy and he was twenty-one years old.

TG and I have visited his grave in Williston, South Carolina.

I typed in his name and within a few seconds, his picture and information was on the screen.

Another view gave us the approximate location of Sandy's dog tag.

We paid our respects and sent pictures to Chad and his parents.

The tags sway and touch one another with any slight movement of air in the space, producing a soft but constant tinkling sound.

As though they are whispering, please don't forget us.

We have not forgotten.

The lake is east

After that profound experience, we made our way back out into the sunshine and walked directly east, in the direction of Lake Michigan and Buckingham Fountain.

The fountain, one of the largest in the world, has fascinated me since I first stood beside it as a child.

Even walking towards it is exciting. Because the city is at your back and the vast lake is so close, you feel as though you're expanding your horizons with every step you take.

If you glance behind you, the skyscrapers are there. Although they don't move, they seem to be accompanying you even as they encourage you to explore what's up ahead.

There are beautiful sculptures and breathtaking views on every side.

The fountain itself is a wonder to behold. I had only my cell phone with me (all of the pictures in this post were taken on it) for a camera, and the fountain is so big that I couldn't get a decent shot of it except from afar.

So there we are: me and my the fountain, courtesy of TG and my iPhone 7. Yes; I was talking. The live shot makes no mistake of that. What was I talking about? Only God knows.

More fountains ... and flowers

At any rate, after spending twenty minutes or so admiring the fountain and marveling at the whine of cicadas in a nearby grove of trees -- yes, there are both wooded areas and cicadas in downtown Chicago -- we walked back west and north, towards the Art Institute.

On the way we passed the commuter train yards that lie directly behind the Art Institute.

If you look closely, you will see the words The Art Institute of Chicago engraved on the back wall of that building, directly facing the train tracks.

From this point -- you saw it on the winged girl sculpture earlier -- there is ivy everywhere.

It reminds me of kudzu -- the vine that ate the South.

But this is Chicago -- anything but the South -- and yet the ivy is eager.

In a gorgeously green large courtyard area with many places to sit and contemplate and maybe eat a yogurt or a sandwich in fine weather, just beside the Art Institute, is Lorado Taft's Fountain of the Great Lakes.

The sound of water and birds is everywhere. You hardly know you're in a city.

Chicago is known as the City in a Garden, and this is one of the ways it earned that name.

Beautiful flowers and greenery are everywhere.

And it all seems to occur so effortlessly.

The Lions of Michigan Avenue, flanking the steps of the Art Institute -- one (pictured below) on the north pedestal, another on the south -- are considered the greatest works of artist Edward Kemeys (1843-1907).

They were placed there in May of 1894.

I have pictures of our family in front of the lions, going back to when the kids were very small.

While walking on northwards towards Millennium Park and the Crown Fountain and the Cloud Gate, we got a glimpse of the Sears Tower* as we looked west down Adams Street from the Magnificent Mile.

I told you about the Crown Fountain last year -- so named not for its resemblance to any kind of crown, but rather after the Crown family, who commissioned and paid for it.

It consists of two glass-block monoliths with water splashing down them from the top. They face one another across a wading pool that is fifty yards long and a scant inch deep.

Made for walking and soft splashing and reflecting.

Which one does while surrounded by the city, and by buildings both old and new.

Children love it. I am not sure whether this wee tot struck this pose of her own volition, or if she was instructed to do so.

There are photographers and artists everywhere.

Either way, the effect is charming.

Crown Fountain caused a great deal of controversy when it opened in 2004; lots of people didn't like it then and lots still don't.

I can take it a lot better without the videoed faces which play on each tower's front, with water sometimes spouting out of the "mouths" of the faces. It's odd. Let's leave it there.

I would like to see the fountain at night, when hundreds of LED lights illuminate the towers.

Maybe next year.

Speaking of next ... that's when we went back to the Bean. Official name: Cloud Gate.

Can you see me and TG? You should be able to; workers polish the bean several times a day.

Leaving that area, I couldn't stop taking pictures of flowers. As I said, they are everywhere.

Then it was time to begin walking towards our hotel, which was in fact too far to walk to. It was fortunate that we had those Ventra cards.

We rode the subway back to Chinatown/Cermak station, and walked to our hotel from there.

It was time to get ready for that night's baseball game.

This clock was a stone's throw from our hotel's entrance. I hope no one ever throws a stone at it.

That evening, back to Wrigley Field we went. The Cubs lost. They failed to make the playoffs and a few weeks later, their season was over. It was a disappointment but it's now ancient history.

There's always next year.

And that is all for now.

*It has another name now but I never use it.

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Happy Monday :: Happy New Week

Comments

[Mari]

You find the best places to visit. I love the fountains, the lions. The restaurant sounds good - and with great ambiance, the Bean is always fun (and yes, I saw you!), but that Vietnam memorial is so very touching! Chad's relative was so young, I'm glad you paid your respects,
Crazy how TG caught you talking in that shot. You're usually so quiet. :)

[Jennifer]

@Mari ... IKR? ME talking? Haaaahahahahaha! Shrinking violet that I am. Seriously though ... how about all of those dog tags hanging there? It was amazing. And I was so sad to see Sandy's picture there. He was so tired in that shot, Greg's dad says. He didn't have long to live. God bless his memory. xoxo

[Jane]

I had to Google Crown Fountain, that is very unusual.
I'm glad you were able to pay your respects to Chad's relative, the memorial is very sobering.

[Jennifer]

@Jane ... Crown Fountain is certainly one of a kind. And it really was a privilege to see Sandy represented in the memorial. Thanks for stopping by! xoxo

[Barb]

I enjoyed my virtual breakfast and walk with you and TG. The city looks vibrant and welcoming in your photos. The Above and Beyond Memorial is very moving. I didn't realize it existed. To bad the Cubs didn't come through for you - it would have been a perfect day!

[Jennifer]

@Barb ... YES it would have! I can't wait until next year when, God willing, we return and they reign triumphant. Something will have to be done about their bullpen, though. Haaahaha xoxo